NOTHING AGAINST LAKES AND MOUNTAIN STREAMS, but when it comes to swoon-worthy bodies of water, the Pacific Ocean has them all beat. The coastline is as varied as California itself, going from town to country and back to urban center within a few exits. And running down its twisty spine is the go-big-orgo-home Highway 1. Because it follows the fragile coastline for most of its miles, visitors are encouraged to trace its path with extreme care to the natural environs and the wildlife that inhabit it.
Starting in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset, you will get a tasty slice of beach life in the city before making your way down toward NorCal’s famous surf hamlets and the Central Coast’s dramatic waves, brushing up against impossibly high cliffs. From there, the waters become serene, the beach breaks more at eye level with whoever’s riding shotgun as you cruise into SoCal’s sandy outposts. By the time you get to Dana Point, you’ll be an expert on the state’s beaches and their distinct flavors, knowing that you’ve taken in all of Highway 1’s beauty and have left it intact for future guests.
This is going to be big. Make room on your phone for all the pictures you’re about to take and gear up for beaches that can be at turns cool or sunny depending on the marine layer; rocky or blanketed with pristine sand according to the region’s terrain. In San Francisco, for example, the city’s western edge is defined by a huge stretch of windswept dunes, and surfers riding the breaks are clad in wetsuits year-round. On your first morning, you can find them congregating inside the sea shanty-style Outer lands over toast topped with kale and walnut pesto. Before you turn on the ignition, though, wander into the surrounding boutiques filled with boho-chic goods and macramé plant holders.
Once you merge onto Highway 1, you may not see the water for a while, since the marine layer tends to hang low until you hit Pescadero, a town the size of a postage stamp. Grab a coffee from Downtown Local and explore the café’s vintage toys and micro movie theater in the back while you review your route to Pebble Beach, known for its smooth tide pools. Find a clear spot amongst the heaps of kelp to hunker down for a minute and admire the honeycomb sandstone to the left and right.
Between here and the more bustling (but still laid-back) Santa Cruz, the roadside bluffs are scattered with farm stands hawking seasonal produce, such as strawberries in early summer. Buy some along the way, and don’t be surprised if you get a hint of ocean spray in your first bite. Trust us: A little salt only brings out the tangy sweetness of the berries. By afternoon, you’ll have reached Santa Cruz, the mellow college town where the ocean meets the redwoods. The beach boardwalk, with its saltwater taffy and nostalgic games and carousel, may be the main event, especially since its recent $14 million revamp. But if you have time to break inland about two miles to midtown, you’ll find a whole buried treasure of retro-modern boutiques, skate shops, and restaurants around Soquel Avenue’s old-fashioned fun. So much so that you should probably call it a night at The Dream Inn, one of the few properties on this part of the coast with a family-friendly pool right off the sand. Things get more remote from here, taking you through blink and-you’ll-miss-them communities like Moss Landing, where you’ll find plenty of hikes among wild succulents. But if you can hold out to Monterey and beyond, there’s a charming respite in Carmel-bythe-Sea. Look for signs into the village on the right about where the flat highway gives way to a hill thick with trees. The town itself is on the western side of the mound, and picturesque streets lined with galleries lead to a small public ocean outlet. The occasional pebble may wiggle its way into your sneakers as you explore the beach, and you’ll certainly run into dogs (and their owners) playing fetch.
It’s often foggy here, so something cozy and delicious is probably on your mind at this point. There are plenty of Italian and New American options all around, but there’s something utterly comforting about French bistro La Bicyclette—what with part of its dining room made to mimic a Provence cottage and casual lunch service where the day’s soup is served tableside in a patina copper pot.
Restored, continue along your route—just like the Beatniks did—to Big Sur. Although a popular destination, the rugged hamlet reads remote and untouched by the 21st century. The redwoods and eucalyptus are dense here, and the shores are protected by huge rocks. Ease up on the gas pedal, adopt a safe speed, and simply enjoy the astonishing views from your car. Stop in at The Henry Miller Memorial Library, where you’ll discover rare signed books and the occasional touring act. Ask the front desk for a hiking trail recommendation and get some tips on how to be a good steward of the land by respecting trail signs and wildlife areas, leaving no trace behind. As a final nod to this fragile ecosystem, pack out whatever you’ve packed in and make sure you don’t wander onto private property. Then put your car in gear for San Simeon to check out the grand Hearst Castle. The grounds sit precariously on a steep hillside, but once you’re inside, you’ll marvel at the Art Deco architecture and former Old Hollywood playground. Take one of the shorter tours because you have two more stops: A moment to stretch your legs in sleepy Cambria’s Moonstone Beach and then an overnight in Pismo Beach, where the highway is now nearly level with the sea. Like in Santa Cruz, you’ll probably lose count of the number of surf shops, but you’ll be glad to have soft sand between your toes again. Stroll as much as you like—you’re here for the night to fill up on fish tacos offered all over town. One of the newest hotels comes by way of the modern and beautifully designed Inn at the Pier, right at the center of all the action, so leave the car keys back in the room for now.
You’ve got about two more hours of inland and ocean highway ahead of you in the morning until you land in downtown Santa Barbara. The Spanish Colonial Revival architecture and high-end shopping are longtime favorites amongst such other attractions as the historic Mission and glamorous waterfront nicknamed the American Rivieria. On the other side of the tracks, in the Funk Zone neighborhood, stop in at a few of the dozen-plus tasting rooms that let you sample from the surrounding area’s wineries. You won’t catch a whiff of stuffiness; instead, chalkboard menus, tattooed proprietors behind the bar, and crisp Rosés that, yes, you could drink all day. You’re done driving for now anyway. And a Marrakesh-inspired room at the Hotel Californian is within walking distance.
Emerge from the jewel-box resort and give the coast a long hug, through more under-the-radar towns like sunny Ventura—the Channel Islands on the water’s horizon—until Highway 1 veers inland toward the mountains, where many of the area’s new cult-favorite wines are being grown. Finally, just past the tasting rooms of Oxnard, the route releases you back to Pacific views near Malibu. Beach estates on the right, the undulating Transverse Ranges on the left. By the time you get to sparkling Pacific Palisades and fashionable Santa Monica, you might need a breather. Stop at the Santa Monica Pier for a quick bite and a photo before you head south. Take your time as you drive through the colorful and wonderfully informal surf centers of Venice, Manhattan Beach, and Seal Beach on the way to Huntington Beach. You might see signs that say you’re on the Pacific Coast Highway by now, but no worries. It’s just a rose by another name. The waterfront’s sun factor is similar to Santa Monica’s, so break out that towel and swimsuit—perhaps at SeaLegs at the Beach, a concession-style restaurant with classic nautical and lifeguard trimmings right off the shoreline’s bike trail. Fill up on poke nachos, and then get horizontal on a lounger before the journey to Dana Point.
The Orange County harbor is full of character with its action-packed marina, tide pools teeming with ocean creatures, and the Ocean Institute, where the curious kid in you will go ga-ga over everything from plankton to sailing history. Think of it as your last field trip before checking in at one of Dana Point’s cushy stays, such as the remodeled Monarch Beach Resort. The property has its own private beach with all the accoutrements (umbrellas, water toys, chairs), or you can simply take in the view from your room. Tomorrow, follow the road to its end just off Capistrano Beach, or scooch onto I-5, a freeway that still manages to lick the waves all the way down to nature-loving Carlsbad and San Diego’s family-friendly attractions. Either way, you can safely say that you’ve seen it all—and done it with care and respect for the coast’s fragile and ever-evolving beauty.
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